Captain,

My 2005 was not welded in. I do not believe yours would be any different. If you look at the underside of the end cap there is a 3/4" opening. Inside that is a phillips screw that holds the spark arrestor in. The spark arrestor and end cap are assembled as one piece. The sooner you get the screw out, the better as they seem to freeze in. I put a 6mm x 1/2" socket head screw with anti-sieze in place of the phillips for ease of future removal. Once you have the spark arrestor out (I used a drift inserted in the 3/4 hole to knock the end cap off) you will see the baffle to be drilled about 6" inside the muffler body. The spark arrestor should be re-installed after the drilling is completed.

I can check at the Yami shop. But all other US models have the screw. I'm running the stock carb with only diverter fins removed.

maybe I was wong about the weld. I see a screw underneth.

Hi Crow,

There is no better bang for the buck mod than the Z1. A small hand impact driver and hammer works really well at removing that spark arrestor screw, because at the same moment the phillips bit is being driven into the head of the screw, it's also turning it. It's good to leave the spark arrestor completely intact for safe and legal off roading, and the exhaust isn't really that much louder, just more growl... and you will be suprised at how much better the bike performs!

Take Care,


Greg

As an addendum:
Unless the offroad terrain is tinder dry, I felt comfortable removing the screen wrap on the arrestor and drilling out every other hole slightly larger on the stinger.
I swear it makes an additional small, but feelable, difference and still basically retains a "spark" arrestor.

As some have read, I simply used a long sharp spike to punch peripheral holes around the inner baffle/diaphram.
I also removed the "swirl" vanes on the arrestor.

The engine breathes so much better at higher altitudes in the 4000' up range I ride in here in Western NC.

Bill O>

My xt has only 400 miles on it but after reading all the hype on the Z1 I to had to try it. I used some small magnets inside the hole saw (Lowes has them in stock) and that retrived most of the metal shavings and the disc. Ended up drilling out the spark arester screw and oversizing one step and installing a allen head bolt. Actually it went very smooth. Will give it the test later this week when it warms up to 45 deg. I would like to thank all that contribute and have Happy and Safe New Year.

I lost the metal insert while doing this and am planning to remove the exhaust. I'm struggling to get the bolts loose - I've tried the t-handle manually and a power drill approach - can someone advise me on the best method? Thank You

Bump... someone out there can advise me -- I know it.

Hi lobo

I am not exactly sure what bolts you are trying to get loose? Are you trying to remove the whole rear portion of the exhaust pipe from the bike? If the bolts are stuck, soak the threads with WD-40, and then use a socket with ratchet to do the deed. I don't know what you are referring to with the power drill approach.

If you can be more specific on what you are asking I'm sure we can help you out.

nice job! anyone know how to or have done similar mod to a 1994 model serow which hasnt got the bolt on the end cap? cheers